While I was looking down upon the rafts that morning in Heilbronn, the daredevil spirit of adventure came suddenly upon me, and I said to my comrades:
"I am going to Heidelberg on a raft. Will you venture with me?"
Their faces paled a little, but they assented with as good a grace as they could. Harris wanted to cable his mother— thought it his duty to do that, as he was all she had in this world — so, while he attended to this, I went down to the longest and finest raft and hailed the captain with a hearty "Ahoy, shipmate!" which put us upon pleasant terms at once, and we entered upon business. I said we were on a pedestrian tour to Heidelberg, and would like to take passage with him. I said this partly through young Z, who spoke German very well, and partly through Mr. X who spoke it peculiarly. I can understand German as well as the maniac that invented it, but I talk it best through an interpreter.
The captain hitched up his trousers, then shifted his quid thoughtfully. Presently he said just what I was expecting he would say—that he had no license to carry passengers, and therefore was afraid the law would be after him in case the matter got noised about or any accident happened. So I chartered the raft and the crew and took all the responsibilities on myself.
With a rattling song the starboard watch bent to their work and hove the cable short, then got the anchor home, and our bark moved off with a stately stride, and soon was bowling along at about two knots an hour.
Our party were grouped amidships. At first the talk was a little gloomy, and ran mainly upon the shortness of life, the uncertainty of it, the perils which beset it, and the need and wisdom of being always prepared for the worst; this shaded off into low-voiced references to the dangers of the deep, and kindred matters; but as the gray east began to redden and the mysterious solemnity and silence of the dawn to give place to the joy-songs of the birds, the talk took a cheerier tone, and our spirits began to rise steadily.
Germany, in the summer, is the perfection of the beautiful, but nobody has understood, and realized, and enjoyed the utmost possibilities of this soft and peaceful beauty unless he has voyaged down the Neckar on a raft. The motion of a raft is the needful motion; it is gentle, and gliding, and smooth, and noiseless; it calms down all feverish activities, it soothes to sleep all nervous hurry and impatience; under its restful influence all the troubles and vexations and sorrows that harass the mind vanish away, and existence becomes a dream, a charm, a deep and tranquil ecstasy. How it contrasts with hot and perspiring pedestrianism, and dusty and deafening railroad rush, and tedious jolting behind tired horses over blinding white roads!
We went slipping silently along, between the green and fragrant banks, with a sense of pleasure and contentment that grew, and grew, all the time. Sometimes the banks were overhung with thick masses of willows that wholly hid the ground behind; sometimes we had noble hills on one hand, clothed densely with foliage to their tops, and on the other hand open levels blazing with poppies, or clothed in the rich blue of the corn-flower; sometimes we drifted in the shadow of forests, and sometimes along the margin of long stretches of velvety grass, fresh and green and bright, a tireless charm to the eye. And the birds! — they were everywhere; they swept back and forth across the river constantly, and their jubilant music was never stilled.
It was a deep and satisfying pleasure to see the sun create the new morning, and gradually, patiently, lovingly, clothe it on with splendor after splendor, and glory after glory, till the miracle was complete. How different is this marvel observed from a raft, from what it is when one observes it through the dingy windows of a railway-station in some wretched village while he munches a petrified sandwich and waits for the train.
当旅店老板得知我和我的代理人是艺术家时，我们在他心中的地位就提升了一大截，得知我们正在欧洲徒步旅行后，我们的地位就更高了。
他向我们介绍了海德堡的路线情况，告诉我们最好绕过哪些地方，最好在哪些地方多逗留些时日；对那晚我所使用的物品，他只收取了低于成本的费用；还为我们准备了一桌丰盛的午餐，并送了很多德国人最喜爱的绿李子。因为我们赏光，他坚决不答应我们步行离开海尔布隆，于是，叫了葛兹·封·贝利欣根的马车来载我们离开。
我用素描的形式把马车?了下来。它算不上是件作品，只是?家所谓的“习作”——能够完整作?的素材。这幅素描有几处败笔，如：马车的速度与马的步伐不一致，这是不对的。而且，给马车让路的人实在太小了，就是我所说的不符合透视?法。最上边的两条线不是马背的曲线，而是缰绳；似乎还丢了一只车轮——当然在完成的?中，这些败笔都会被纠正。马车后面飞舞的不是旗帜，而是车上的篷帘。?中还有太阳，不过，我没有空出足够的空间。现在，我记不清奔跑的那个人前面是什么了，不过我想那可能是堆干草，或者是个女人。1879年的巴黎?廊上，这幅习作被展览出来，但是并没有获得任何奖项，因为展览不为习作设奖。
车到桥头的时候，我们付了钱打发马车回去了。河面上漂满了圆木——细长的、没有树皮的松树圆木——我们倚靠在桥栏上，看着人们把这些木头捆成木筏。这些木筏的形状和结构都适用于内卡河道弯曲和极狭?的地方。木筏长50码至100码不等，尾部有九根圆木那么宽，前部的宽度相当于三根圆木。舵的主要部分是一根撑篙，安装在木筏的前部。三根圆木的宽度只能容纳一个舵手，因为这些小木材的粗细也不过相当于一名普通妇女的腰围大小。木筏几部分的连接是松散的，灵活性也较强，以便随时变向来适应河流任何水流形式的需要。
内卡河的很多地方都非常狭?，你足可以把一只小狗扔到对面。当一些地方水流陡变时，撑筏者就不得不使出几招绝技，引航变向。河流并不总是淹没整个河床——河床的宽度达到30码，有时甚至达到40码——但是石堤把注入其中的水流分隔成三等份，并把主要的水量汇集到中心水道中去。在浅水期，这些整齐的、狭?的石堤会露出水面四五英寸，就像被淹没的房屋的屋顶。但在深水期，它们就都会被河水淹没。在内卡河，一帽子的雨水就能使水位上涨，一满筐的雨水就会使河决堤！
舒劳斯旅馆与几条堤坝走向相同，与它并排的那一段，水流湍急。我时常坐在自己的房间，透过玻璃看那长而狭?的木筏沿着中心水道顺流而下，擦过堤岸的右侧边缘，小心地对准下游石桥的中孔滑下。我就这样望着它们，在对什么时候能看到它们撞在桥墩，成为残骸的憧憬中迷失了自我。然而，我总是失望。一天早晨，有一条木筏粉碎在那里，不过是在我刚刚踏进房间去点烟时撞击的，因此我还是错过了。
在海尔布隆的那个早晨，当我俯瞰着木筏时，蛮勇的冒险精神突然产生，我对我的同伴们说：“我准备乘木筏去海德堡。你们和我一起去冒险吗？”
