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第18章 TheClothingandPersonalAdornments......

The Clothing and Personal Adornments of the Dong Ethnic Group

With a population of over 1.8 million,the Dong ethnic group is distributed over the vast and hazy mountains in the intersection of Hunan and Guizhou provinces,and Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region.

The mountain dwellings of the Dong ethnic group are mostly distributed over the green forests and rivers that are beautiful as paintings.Living in such an environment,the Dong people have formed a strong sense of nature and ethics,following the mandate of heaven and complying with the way of nature and the theory that man is an integral part of nature in their national culture.Towers of drums,bridges of happiness,national dress,songs and dances are the most important cultural aspects of the Dongs.

Walking into the mountain areas at the intersection of Hunan and Guizhou provinces and Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region,

high drum towers and mountain villages at the foot of the mountains and by the rivers can be seen.Everywhere there are local people in their national costumes.The women in particular are in plain but elegant embroidered suits, wearing exquisite silver decorations, thus displaying a strong adherence to their ancient ways.

The people of the Dong are good at spinning and weaving.The Dong cloth that they weave and dye is the most popular material for clothing of the local people.The cloth must be repeatedly soaked and dyed in a mixture of indigo,white liquor,ox-hide extract and egg white and steamed,sun-dried,and beaten with mallets before it is used to make clothes.Because of the complex process,the cloth is expensive.

The people are also skilled at embroidery in many ways.For instance,they tie silk threads into clusters of beads and embroider them closely on the base cloth.This makes for a bold and rough appearance of the embroidery and a strong sense of its texture.Embroidery made with plaited silk threads has a simple and contrasting effect.

The embroidery is unique.The scarves,the tailored cloth shoes,the shoe pads worn by the women,and the surface of the straps for carrying children all have numerous designs in bright colors.The splendid attire they wear on important occasions must pass through six or seven processes,like lock embroidery,flat embroidery,knotting embroidery,cutting and appliquéembroidery,and knitting embroidery.It is said that once a daughter is born,the mother will be busy preparing her clothes until she is married.

The patterns of the embroidery of the Dong ethnic group typically reflect their worship of nature.The Dongs believe that all things on earth have a soul.In the eyes of the Dongs,the flowers,birds,mountains,rivers,ancient trees and huge stone blocks may all make their presence known and drive out evil spirits and remove disasters.Wearing clothes with these designs offers the protection of the deities.Of this embroidery,a beautiful spider pattern is very popular.According to legend,the Dongs were once invaded by outsiders and some of the people hid in a cave.A spider wove a large web in the mouth of the cave.When the enemies arrived,they saw the web and thought that no-one was in the cave.As a result,the Dongs escaped disaster.Since then,the Dongs have been making the beautiful spider patterns on the cloth they weave.

Because of the close blending of the life of the Dongs with nature,the flying birds,blossoms,insects and fishes all have become the subjects in the embroidery made by the Dong women.Through distortions,exaggerations and clever technical treatment,the women draw the outlines of vivid and romantic patterns with their tiny embroidery needles.

The dress of the women can be divided into rich dresses for holidays and festivals and plain clothes.The holiday dresses in particular reflect the rich traditional national features of the Dongs.From their embroidered shoes with curled-up tips to the exquisitely wrought silver hairpins on the hair buns of the local women,from their earrings,bracelets to silver hairpins and coronas,the dresses and adornments are with an array of colors and tinging all the time.It can be said that this is the essence of the handicraft arts of the ethnic group.

While in the Dong area,you can find yourself in the mountains and rivers that have still not been assimilated by modern civilization,experience the pure,harmonious folk custom,see the beautiful garments flowing with lasting charm and feel the tranquility and joy of your soul being cleansed.

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